Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан)

  • Capital: Bishkek
  • Language: Kyrgyz, Russian (both official)
  • Population: 6 million
  • Location: Central Asia, between Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and China
  • Currency: Som
  • Interesting Fact: Kyrgyzstan is home to the world's longest epic poem ever written, 'Manas', being over 500,000 lines

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INFO

MY TRIP

MY TRIP

HOBO ADVICE

HOBO ADVICE

CULTURE

CULTURE

TRANSPORTATION

TRANSPORTATION

PLACES

BISHKEK

BISHKEK

ISSYK KOL

ISSYK KOL

KARAKOL

KARAKOL

MOUNTAINS

MOUNTAINS

STORIES AND HOSTELS

A HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE TO LOSING CAMERAS

A HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE TO LOSING CAMERAS

DUET HOSTEL KARAKOL

DUET HOSTEL KARAKOL

TREK TO BISHKEK

TREK TO BISHKEK

PHOTO ALBUMS

KARAKOL/MOUNTAIN PHOTOS

KARAKOL/MOUNTAIN PHOTOS

BISHKEK PHOTOS

BISHKEK PHOTOS

SONG KOL

SONG KOL

My Trip

July 2017

Following my trip through the Almaty region of Kazakhstan, I made my way to Kyrgyzstan via marshrutka, arriving first in the capital Bishkek. The journey was made with two newly formed friends, Gautier and Stefan, and the three of us all ended up staying at the Central Chuy Avenue Hostel (highly recommended). After spending two days in Bishkek, Gautier and I took another marshrutka to the town Karakol on the other side of the country, stopping en route to see the country's most famous natural landmark, Lake Issyk Kol. Stefan arrived the following day, just as Gautier was leaving to Uzbekistan.

Karakol felt much like a place out of time, lacking infrastructure and nestled within wild surrounding nature. Yurts and herders were abundant in the region, which helped provided a much needed break from city life. While there, we stayed at a place called Duet Hostel, which turned out to be a haven for adventerous backpackers, incuding a group of Israeli hippies, who we soon befriended. Over the next few days, Stefan and I planned and carried out a few treks through the hills and valleys surrounding Karakol, seeing some of the most incredible nature on planet Earth.

After several days there, I returned back to Bishkek via marshrutka again where I was reunited with an old travel buddy, Pete, who I had met in Georgia two years ago. We cought up on what had happened since then while I got some much needed rest after a week of mountain trekking. Then, since all good things come to an end, it was time for me to return to Moscow, so I said goodbye to Central Asia (for now).

Hobo Advice

When it comes to Kyrgyzstan, I'll echo the words of the old hippie movement: experience nature, man. There aren't many cities in Kyrgyzstan, and only two (Bishkek and Osh) have over 100,000 inhabitants. The majority of the country is very rural and many people still live as semi-nomadic herders. Outside of the two major cities, there is very little industry and most of the roads remain unpaved, but what the country lacks in development, it makes up for ten fold in the natural world. Over 80% of the country is covered by mountains and Kyrgyzstan has some of the largest and most incredibly blue Alpine lakes in the world.

Most likely you'll arrive in Bishkek, which in it's own right is a pleasant, relaxed city with a vibrant culture of it's own. But heed my advice and go out into the mountains, trek through the forests, and submerge yourself in the lakes. The nature in Kyrgyzstan is unlike anything esle I've ever experience, and that in and of itself is enough to make your trip one to remember. Just give yourself more time than I did (just 8 days) and try to be as active as you can. Interact with your surroundings and go everywhere. The cost will be next to nothing and the experience will be unlike anything you've ever done before. If you have a tent, sleeping bag, and camping equipment, bring it. You will absolutely use it. If you don't, there are plenty of places to rent it for only $1-2.

Some words of warning though. You will be offered a drink called Kumis during your stay. It is an alcoholic bevrage made from fermented horse milk. It is very, very sour and difficult to get down. Brace yourself since it's considered pretty bad manners to gag or dry heave on it after it has been given to you as a gift. Also, beware of taxi drivers trying to rip you off. Nearly every one I came acoss tried to do so, but if you remain firm on your demand on a fair price, you'll likely win in the end. Try to agree on one before you enter the cab, and if you know some Russian, this will help a lot.

Overall Impressions

  • Nature is amazing
  • So many mountains
  • Very little infrastructure outside of Bishkek
  • Nothing at all will be expensive
  • Horses are everywhere in the countryside
  • Hitchhiking is very easy
  • Most of the roads outside of Bishkek are not paved
  • Driver go incredible fast, despite poor road conditions
  • Karakol is a great starting point for mountain treks
  • Beware of fake taxi drivers
  • Hitchhike if you can. It's usually safer and cheaper (as it is free) than a cab
  • Both horse milk and camel milk are very sour, but if you have to choose, pick camel. It's not as bad.
  • Most people are very friendly and will readily show you around
  • Almost noone speaks English. Some knowledge of Russian (or Kyrgyz) helps tremendously
  • Not many foreigners visit the country, but the ones who do are super interesting
  • Unlike Kazakhstan, very few Russians still like in Kyrgyzstan
  • If you are not of Central Asian descent, you will stand out, but that's a good thing since people will be excited to get to know you
  • In the countryside, most toilets are just out-houses
  • Apricots are really good here

Duet Hostel (Karakol)

Visited July 2017

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I've never been in any place quite like this, both in terms of the hostel and the town. The hostel itself has a really great outdoor hang-out area where you can relax, order food and drinks and socialize with other guests, plus a fully equipped kitchen. But while that's all well and good, you actually get to sleep in yurts outside for dorms! Six people to a tent, breathing the fresh Kyrgyz mountain air (as seen above).  Never before had I done anything quite like it, but now I'd absolutely do it again.

However, the absolute best part of this place is the fact that it's surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in the world and wild, seemingly untamed nature in every direction. Just the feeling of waking up in the morning and stepping outside the yurt was almost surreal. It was as if I was in a new world, away from the noise and stress of civilization, where I would more likely see a sheep walk down the street than a car. And after two years of living in a big city, sleeping in the great outdoors and going back to nature was exactly what I needed.

From the hostel, it is realy easy to get a ride to the start of so many amazing trails and parks for hiking. Personally, I recommend going to Ala Kol, which can be reached in two days (or one if you're an experienced trekker) from the town. If you ask someone who works there, they can arrange a driver to take you to the park where the trail begins.

HOSTEL HIGHLIGHTS: Incredible Surrounding Nature, Helpful Staff, Yurts!, Great hang-out Area, Good Food

Song Kol Photos

Unfortunately I never made it to Song Kol during my visit to Kyrgyzstan, therefore these photos were taken by my friend Pete (which is why the quality is so much better). Nonetheless the place looks amazing and I've heard rave reviews from everyone who has been there. So, therefore, with one degree of separation, I highly recommend going to Song Kol.

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Bishkek

July 2017

Regardless of what type of trip you're doing, any visit to Kyrgyzstan usually starts with Bishkek. Being the capital and one of only two cities in the country containing over 100,000 people, it is pretty much the only entry point (that is unless you're hitchhiking). And although it's significantly smaller and less developed than the cities of it's northern neighbor Kazakhstan, I must admit I enjoyed my time spent there.

While there isn't a whole lot to do in Bishkek, the city is nice and pleasant, lined with trees, parks, mini shops, and surrounded by mountains. It's the one spot in the country where you'll find supermarkets and full scale restaurants (which are both really good and really cheap), and, to my pleasant surprise, even a large stadium with a running track. Regardless of where you are, the views are scenic and the people are incredibly welcoming. Even just while walking down the street, I had people stop me (upon seeing that I clearly am not Kyrgyz) and ask where I was from while giving me recommendations of what to do while I was there. For the first time ever, I felt a bit like a celebrity.

One thing I can recommend thought would be the Osh Bazaar. Like many cities in Central Asia, there is a huge open bazaar in the center of Bishkek where you can get pretty much anything you want or need whether it be food, clothing, household necessities, cultural items, or odd smelling cheeses. And one thing I found pretty interesting is that, unlike most of its counterparts, it is almost entirely locals, meaning there are less souvenirs and more everyday goods. It's definitely worth checking out and everything is very, very inexpensive (and can be haggled).

Osh Market

Osh Market

I would definitely recommend spending a few days in Bishkek, but don't spend an entire Kyrgyzstan visit there since there is so much more to see in the country. Use Bishkek as a center point since, being the center capital, it's a good launching point for wherever you want to go, whether it be somewhere in the country or to one of its neighbors like Kazakhstan or Tajikistan.

Karakol

July 2017

I'll get straight to the point, Karakol is a nature lover's paradise. Despite being one of Kyrgyzstan's biggest cities (still just 60,000 people), half the roads are still dirt, cows and sheep roam the streets, and the towering Tian Shan mountains are only about a 15-20 minute walk away. The air is fresh and Issyk Kol, the second largest Alpine lake in the world, is just a short drive away. Along the roads, small houses and shops are nearly swallowed up by trees and bushes, while noise and light pollution are virtually non-existent. For me, this visit came at a time where I was pretty sick and tired of cities and desperately needed a break. Karakol was the perfect medicine.

In the city itself, there are a couple of sites worth seeing like the central market, an old, wooden Russian Orthodox church and a mosque with Chinese influenced architecture. But let's be honest, these are not the reasons people (myself included) go to Karakol. We go for the nature and mountains. We go to trek up to glaciers and through valleys alongside herders and wild horses. Karakol is a base-camp for those seeking to venture out into the wild. It is a settlement where you can buy food and rent tents and equipment (for as little as $1-2) before setting out on an epic journey through lands seemingly lost outside of time.

Probably the most well known trek in the area is a 40-50km (25-30 mile) hike up to a mountain lake called Ala-Kol, through a 4000m pass and past hot springs. While I usually don't recommend doing what everyone is doing, I have to make an exception here. The route through the valley just may be the most gorgeous place I've ever seen, and since Kyrgyzstan hardly gets any tourism, you can go for a couple hours without seeing anyone except some local herders while hiking this 'most trafficked' route.

I just have to make one comment here though. It is often said, on other travel blogs and tourist info sites, that it takes 3-4 days to complete this trek and that doing it in one is impossible. That is wrong. After attempting this route, I want to make it clear that doing the whole thing in one day is absolutely possible. My friend Stefan (see story 'Mountaineering Madness') and I attempted this and within just over three hours, we covered 1/3 of the total distance. We were well on pace to finish in one day, and probably would have if we didn't get lost and head in the wrong direction for two hours in the middle (we're both pretty bad with navigation).

Mountains

TIan Snan Range

I first came across Central Asian mountains in Kyrgyzstan's northern neighbor Kazakhstan. So, when I hopped into the marshrutka from Almaty to Bishkek, I thought I had a good idea of what lay ahead. Then I saw them for real and realized just how foolishly wrong my assumption was. While Kazakhstan's mountains were pretty incredible, Kyrgyzstan's Tian Shan were out of this world. And I'm only slightly exaggerating by using that expression. At some places they were so high that it seemed as if they were reaching into the stratosphere. They stood taller and were sharper and more jagged than any I had ever seen before (Georgia included), and they were so numerous. It didn't matter if I was in Bishkek, Issyk Kol, Karakol, or (presumably) any other place within the country. Lining the horizon in every direction, these giants stood like a jagged wall.

But there was more than just their appearance. There was (thankfully) no tourist industry developed around these peaks, they weren't barren or deserted by any means. During my numerous hikes, I rarely came across other backpackers, but I did see other things like herds of sheep and/or cows being led by men on horseback and families gathered around circular white tents. These mountains we're still being used as they had for centuries, as homes for animals and nomadic herders. They felt alive, as such an environment should be, not on display for photo ops. So, naturally, I ended up spending a majority of my time there. And it was amazing.

Issyk Kol

Alongside the mountains, there's one natural landmark Kyrgyzstan is pretty well known for, and that is lake Issyk Kol. i say that since it was the one other natural landmark in the country I was aware of before arriving. From what I knew, it is the second largest Alpine lake in the whole world, taking up a significant portion of the country's area, and personally, it was something I thought would be interesting to visit. Therefore I did.

My first encounter came during my trip across the country from Bishkek to Karakol. As I hopped in the marshrutka to start the journey, I eagerly readied myself for what was to come next. The first two hours passed with just mountains, roads and villages, but then, something different appeared. Something blue and large. We got closer and then it became clear. With snow-peaked mountains and dusty red cliffs on all sides, this giant pool of water sat, clear and blue, stretching as far as the eye could see (we drove three hours alongside it). The road had become dirt by this point, and trees lined both sides of the road, only adding to the already scenic view. Small beaches popped up every here and there while local families swam in the water.

However, this was just the North side of the lake. I cannot verify, for I have not yet seen it, but I have been told that the southern side is actually much more scenic and has camels. I did, however make a second trip to the lake after arriving in Karakol, but instead of rewriting that story here, I'll direct you to the story. Please enjoy.

Transportation

Now, I don't usually dedicate an entire post to transportation for a country's page, but in this category, Kyrgyzstan was truly unique and absolutely needs to be discussed. There is very little order or organization to it, infrastructure doesn't really exist much outside of the country's few cities, and to say it is chaotic would be an understatment. However, it somehow all comes together in the end, and for me at least, I always made it to my destination mainly using three particulat methods: marshrutkas, taxis, and hitchhiking.

Marshrutka

As I've discussed before in other countries' posts, a marshrutka is kind of half way between a van and a minibus. They're pretty common in former Soviet countries, and even the name is Russian. For Kyrgyzstan though, this is the main form of public transportation for the entire country. Here there are no metros, not even in the capital Bishkek, and trains are few and far between. Thus leaving these odd vehicles as the sole option in getting from point A to point B.

They go pretty much everywhere, doing loops and routs both within cities and across the country, like the six hour one I took from Bishkek to Karakol. There are even a few that go internationally to neighboring countries like Kazakhstan and Tajikistan. However, before I praise them too much, I do wish to note that they are usually jam packed as tight as possible (since that's how the drivers make their money) and ther is usually no air conditioning. If you happen to be in one for over 15 minutes, there will be sweat.

But that said, they are dirt cheap, usually costing just 10 som (about 15 cents) to ride one within the city. Even the one going across the whole country cost me just 350 som ($5), so wherever you go, you'll never have to worry about the price. Just prepare yourself though if the ride is long since most of the roads are not paved and marshurtkas have no seatbelts. You will be bouncing up and down a lot.

Taxi

Usually I hate taking taxis anywhere. They're so often over priced and they take all the fun and adventure out of going from place to place. But in Kyrgyzstan, especially if you're going somewhere that isn't on a Marshrutka route, they're the only option you've got. This comes with some pluses and minuses, as you can probably imagine.

On the plus side, taxis in Kyrgyzstan are ridiculously cheap compared to other countries. Granted they are more expensive than marshrutkas, but you can still take a 20 minute ride in one for just about 100 som ($1.40 or 1.30 euro). Especially if you happening to be splitting it with others, you'll reach your destination significantly faster than by marshrutka (which will make several stops and pick up other passengers) and you won't have to worry about the cost.

That said, taxi driver will often try to scam and overcharge you, so be prepared. Make sure you agree on a price before getting in a cab and always haggle it down. Also, be prepared because these drivers go outrageously fast and most cabs do not have seat-belts.

Hitchhiking

To say hitchhiking in Kyrgyzstan is easy would be a huge understatement. For example, activities that are more difficult include tying your shoes, washing your hair, and clapping your hands. I kid you not, people stopped and offered me a ride just upon seeing me standing near the road. I didn't have to stick out my thumb or even look up. If I were to break it down to statistics, I would say about one out of every three drivers will stop for you and one of three that stop will be going in your direction. Waiting more that five minutes is rare, and waiting more than ten is unheard of.

If you're not in a huge hurry, definitely choose hitchhiking over a taxi any chance you get. It's free, more fun, and actually quite a bit safer since taxi drivers go like maniacs. And on top of that, you can actually get a pretty good conversation out of it since the driver will likely want to get to know you a little. Kyrgyzstan doesn't get many tourists, so people are usually pretty excited to come across foreigners.

Culture

July 2107

Before arriving, I didn't know too much about Kyrgyz culture, but from what I experienced, it was pretty different from anything I've ever come across. And I mean that in a really good and interesting way. Personally, it was so interesting and be a part of, and I mean this about everything from the old ladies selling fermented horse milk of the street corners of Bishkek to the herders living in yurts in the mountains outside of Karakol to all the people who openly offered to take me anywhere or show me around the country.

Alongside Mongolia, it's one of the only countries that still has a prevalent semi-nomadic culture. I saw this most during my time in the Karakol region going on hikes and coming across numerous herders and yurts, but I've also heard it's pretty prevalent in the southern part of the country. Even though it is by choice to live in such a way this day in age, it was still really cool from my standpoint coming across it.

I guess I can sum up my encounter with Kyrgyz culture by saying that it felt a little as if I was taking a step out of time and away from modern industry, which was great after spending the past two years in a big city. People, generally speaking from those I encountered, were so much more open and eager to get to know me than pretty much anywhere else I've ever been to. It was a chance to get to learn and be part of something different than I any place I've lived in before, which was overall a pretty great experience.